At first sight this plaza didn’t float my boat. No character, I thought. Just a big space with a lot of grandiose buildings. The Casa Rosada presidential palace, the Catedral Metropolitana and the Cabildo to name but a few. Lonely Planet touts it as the city’s historic heart. I couldn’t feel it. But we went back. And then we went again. With each visit we … Continue reading Plaza de Mayo.
I got quite excited when I heard about the Buenos Aries ‘cafe notables’. There are over seventy of them. Historic places recognised for their tradition, architectural value, local relevance and cultural significance. I love a theme, I love a challenge, and while I knew I probably wouldn’t make it to all seventy, it never hurts to have a dream. San Telmo has five classic corner … Continue reading The Notables.
San Telmo is great. But we didn’t come to Buenos Aries only to sit on Plaza Dorrego. Our thoughts turned to getting around the city. The buses – collectivos or bondis in the local parlance – seemed to be the way to go. They are loud, rough around the edges, but reasonably reliable, dirt cheap, and ferry six-and-a-half million passengers a day. We bought Sube … Continue reading The Collectivos.
On Sundays San Telmo goes for broke. For one day a week it’s the place everyone wants to be. The feria began in 1970 with just a handful of stalls, an attempt to save the area from re-development. Now the antique market takes over Plaza Dorrego and artisan stalls the surrounding cobble-stone streets, for several blocks. Bandoneon players, tarot-card readers, simit sellers, orange-juice and sugared-peanut … Continue reading San Telmo: The Sunday Feria.
We flew for 12 hours, but I feel like we’ve come to a different planet…. We begin to settle in. We’ve been here for almost two weeks now and the apartment feels like home. We are at least getting used to its quirks. We meet some of our neighbours. The magician who lives on the other half of the ground floor with his girlfriend and … Continue reading San Telmo: Our ‘Barrio’.
First impressions are important. My heart sank a tiny bit, as it also jumped and did a jig. Sank at the slight grunginess – but soared at the height of the ceilings and all the lovely original old features. We had just arrived at our next home. We’d live in this old colonial building in San Telmo, for the next three months. I wanted to … Continue reading We’re in Buenos Aries!
Wondering Woman 